Retinol vs. retinal vs. tretinoin: what's the difference and which one is right for you?
When it comes to skincare, it's easy to get overwhelmed (and even easier to purchase products that don’t work for your skin type) by all of the products and ingredients on the market. One of the most popular ingredients that has gained a lot of buzz in recent years is retinoids (aka vitamin A), but that’s also a category of ingredient with a really high margin for error, and some pretty severe consequences for skin health if used incorrectly. With so many different types of retinoids on the market, it's essential to understand the differences between them and how to incorporate them into your skincare routine in order to achieve healthy, glowing skin.
Retinoids are a class of vitamin A derivatives that have been shown to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and texture. They work by increasing cell turnover, stimulating collagen production, and reducing the breakdown of collagen in the skin. Here are the three most commonly used types of retinoids:
Retinol:
Retinol is a popular over-the-counter (OTC) retinoid that's available in most drugstores. It's a mild form of vitamin A that needs to be converted to retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A, by the skin cells. Retinol is less potent than tretinoin and can be less irritating to the skin, making it a great option for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Retinol products come in various concentrations, ranging from 0.1% to 1%, and it's recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually work your way up to prevent any irritation. It's also essential to wear sunscreen during the day when using retinol, as it can increase sun sensitivity.I recommend the Skin Medica Retinol Complex 0.25 for beginners, and the Skin Medica Retinol Complex 1.0 for those who have spent some time with Retinol and are ready to level up.
Retinal:
Retinal, also known as retinaldehyde, is another type of OTC retinoid that's more potent than retinol but less potent than tretinoin. It's a direct precursor to retinoic acid and doesn't require conversion by the skin cells, making it more effective than retinol.
Retinal is a good option for those who want to step up their retinoid game but find tretinoin too harsh for their skin. It's available in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 0.1%, and it's best to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase it to avoid irritation.My favorite Retinal on the market is Medik8 Crystal Retinal, which comes in a range of percentage strengths starting at 0.01% for beginners and those with sensitive skin, all the way up to 0.2% for those who are long time retinoid users.
Tretinoin:
Tretinoin, also known as retinoic acid, is a prescription-strength retinoid that's the most potent and effective of the three. Tretinoin is available in various strengths, ranging from 0.025% to 0.1%, and it is only available with a prescription. It's used to treat acne, fine lines, and wrinkles, and it requires a prescription from a dermatologist.
If you are unable to get a script for tretinoin, there are many OTC forms of retinol that may still provide you with benefits. Adapalene is a form of retinoid that is effective at treating acne and blemishes. I recommend using La Roche Posay Effeclar Adapalene Gel 0.1%.
How to incorporate retinoids into your skincare routine?
Retinoids can be a game-changer for your skin, but it's important to introduce them gradually to avoid irritation. Using a percentage strength that your skin cant handle, using too much product, and using retinoids more frequently than your skin can tolerate can all lead to issues with your skin like purging, dryness, dehydration, and more. But consistent correct usage of retinoids can have incredible impact on the appearance of your skin. It’s considered the gold standard in anti-aging skin care for a reason. Slow and steady wins the race, my friend! Here's how to incorporate them into your skincare routine:
Start with a low concentration and go slow:
Whether you're using retinol, retinal, or tretinoin, start with a low concentration and gradually work your way up to prevent any irritation. It's recommended to start with a concentration of 0.025% and to do a patch test prior to applying to your entire face. If your skin can tolerate your chosen retinoid, it’s recommended to start applying 1-2x/week for several weeks before increasing. Some people use their retinoids every night of the week, but some people simply can’t tolerate that. Remember, your skin is unique, and your skin care routine should be too.Apply to dry skin:
Apply retinoids to dry skin after cleansing and toning. Wait for several minutes before applying any other skincare products to allow the retinoid to absorb fully into the skin.Don’t mix it with other actives:
While retinol and vitamin C are both considered gold-star, gold-standard ingredients, they don’t play nicely together. If you use anti-oxidants like vitamin C or copper peptides, or actives like salicylic acid or glycolic acid in your skin care routine, be sure to spread out your usage. It is recommended to use anti-oxidants in the day time, and actives on other nights of the week.Follow with a moisturizer:
Retinoids can be drying to the skin, so it's essential to follow with a moisturizer to keep the skin hydrated. Choose a moisturizer that's suitable for your skin type and doesn't contain any ingredients that can irritate the skin, such as fragrances or essential oils. If you are brand new to retinoids, you may want to apply moisturizer first for the first few applications in order to act as a barrier. Over time the skin can tolerate more retinoids, so going slow is important.Use sunscreen during the day:
Retinoids can increase sun sensitivity, so it's crucial to use sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from the sun's harmful rays. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 and apply it every two hours when exposed to the sun.Be patient:
It takes time for retinoids to show results, so be patient and consistent with your skincare routine. It can take up to 12 weeks to see improvements in the skin's texture, tone, and fine lines.
VITAMIN A FAQ:
Q: I have sensitive skin, can I still use a retinoid?
A: Retinoids can be sensitizing, so my recommendation is to start slow and choose a retinol that was formulated specifically for sensitive skin. Vetted Derm Labs makes a retinol serum that uses a form of vitamin A called Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate which has been shown to be less irritating than other retinoids, but more active with pro-collagen production.
Q: What are retinoids, and how do they work on the skin?
A: Retinoids are a class of vitamin A derivatives that improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and texture. They work by increasing cell turnover, stimulating collagen production, and reducing collagen breakdown in the skin.
Q: What are the differences between retinol, retinal, and tretinoin?
A: Retinol is an over-the-counter (OTC) retinoid that needs to be converted to retinoic acid by the skin cells. Retinal is also an OTC retinoid, more potent than retinol but less potent than tretinoin, and it's a direct precursor to retinoic acid. Tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid, the most potent and effective of the three, and it's used to treat acne, fine lines, and wrinkles.
Q: How should I incorporate retinoids into my skincare routine?
A: Start with a low concentration, apply to dry skin after cleansing and toning, avoid mixing with other actives, follow with a moisturizer, use sunscreen during the day, and be patient with consistent use. It's crucial to introduce retinoids gradually to avoid irritation.
Q: What are some common mistakes to avoid when using retinoids?
A: Some common mistakes include using a percentage strength that is too high, using too much product, using retinoids more frequently than your skin can tolerate, and not wearing sunscreen during the day.
Q: How long does it take to see results from using retinoids?
A: It can take up to 12 weeks to see improvements in the skin's texture, tone, and fine lines with consistent use of retinoids.
Q: Can I use retinoids with other skincare products?
A: While retinol and some other actives like vitamin C or glycolic acid are beneficial, it's essential to avoid mixing them in the same routine. It's recommended to use anti-oxidants in the daytime and actives on other nights of the week to avoid potential irritation.
In conclusion, retinoids are a powerful ingredient that can improve the appearance of the skin, but it's essential to understand the differences between them and how to incorporate them into your skincare routine gradually. Start with a low concentration, apply to dry skin, follow with a moisturizer, use sunscreen during the day, and be patient. With consistent use, you can achieve smoother, more youthful-looking skin.
If you’ve got questions about incorporating vitamin A, or if you would like an expert to weigh in on your skin care routine, book a one-on-one consultation with me today!