Managing Perioral Dermatitis: Gentle Skincare Solutions
If you've clicked on this blog post, I suspect you're feeling quite frustrated with perioral dermatitis, a common and confusing skin condition. As both an esthetician and a makeup artist, I encounter this issue regularly and have faced it personally for years, so you're definitely not alone. Today, we delve into perioral dermatitis—its signs, effective treatments, and the strategies I've used to keep it under control.
My journey with perioral dermatitis began unexpectedly during the chaos of 2020. Caught in a cycle of stress and boredom, with a professional makeup kit full of products nearing their expiration, I started doing full glam on myself nearly every day. And then I started experimenting with my skincare routine. New moisturizers, new masks, new retinols, chemical exfoliants, and DIY dermaplaning—an epic skincare blunder (especially as a licensed esthetician, but who was at their best in 2020?) in hindsight but a learning curve nonetheless.
A few weeks into my beauty experiments, I noticed alarming changes: my skin around the mouth started peeling in sheets, accompanied by red, inflamed patches and numerous tiny white bumps around my chin and nose. Initially, I thought a makeup product was to blame and attempted to remedy my skin with a salicylic acid-infused clay mask. Unfortunately, this only aggravated my condition, leading to increased inflammation, itchiness, and spreading peeling overnight.
In search of answers, I consulted my go-to skincare texts and the internet before seeking an official diagnosis from my doctor. The verdict was perioral dermatitis—a term that was somewhat unfamiliar at the time but has since become a significant part of my skincare journey. Now, with years of experience and a wealth of knowledge, I assist others in recovering from perioral dermatitis, offering not just professional advice but empathy and understanding from someone who's been through it. If you're navigating this condition and seeking personalized skincare guidance, I offer virtual skin care one-on-ones to help people dial in their skin care routine, for any condition or life cirumstances they may be faced with.
Remember, while I share my insights and recommendations, I am an esthetician, not a dermatologist. If you suspect you’re facing perioral dermatitis, reaching out to your doctor for an accurate diagnosis is crucial. Similar symptoms can arise from various conditions, making professional guidance the first step toward healing.
What is Perioral Dermatitis?
Perioral dermatitis is a facial rash that tends to occur around the mouth, and sometimes around the eyes and nose, presenting as red, inflamed bumps that can sometimes resemble acne. It's a condition that primarily affects women, but can certainly appear in anyone. The exact cause of perioral dermatitis remains a topic of study, but it's believed to be associated with a disruption to the barrier of your skin, over exfoliation, environmental factors, and even internal factors.
Symptoms to Watch For
Recognizing perioral dermatitis involves noting the distinct areas it affects – mainly the skin around the mouth, nose, and eyes. It can appear as:
Red, inflamed bumps or patches
A burning or stinging sensation
Dry, flaky skin in the affected areas
Common Mistakes in Managing Perioral Dermatitis
When navigating the complexities of perioral dermatitis, it’s easy to fall into certain skincare traps that can inadvertently worsen the condition. Awareness of these common mistakes can guide you towards a more effective management strategy, ensuring that your journey to clearer, healthier skin is free from unnecessary detours. Here are the pitfalls to avoid:
Using Topical Steroids
One of the most counterproductive approaches to treating perioral dermatitis is the application of topical steroids. While these may offer temporary relief by reducing inflammation, they can lead to a rebound effect, causing a more severe outbreak once the use is discontinued. Moreover, prolonged use can thin the skin, making it more vulnerable to irritations and infections.
2. Applying Heavy Creams
Moisturizing is crucial for maintaining skin health, but heavy creams can be problematic for those with perioral dermatitis. These formulations might trap bacteria and fungi beneath the skin’s surface, exacerbating the condition. Instead, opt for lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizers designed to hydrate without clogging pores or creating a breeding ground for microbes.
3. Incorporating Actives Like Vitamin C
While active ingredients such as Vitamin C are celebrated for their antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin, they can be too harsh for those suffering from perioral dermatitis. The acidic nature of Vitamin C serums can irritate the compromised barrier of the skin, leading to increased redness and discomfort. It’s best to reintroduce such actives cautiously once the skin has fully healed and with the guidance of a skincare professional.
4. Using Chemical Sunscreens
Sun protection is a non-negotiable part of any skincare routine, but for those with perioral dermatitis, chemical sunscreens might do more harm than good. The chemical filters used in these formulations can cause irritation and flare-ups in sensitive skin types. Physical (or mineral) sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are gentler alternatives that provide effective protection without the risk of exacerbating perioral dermatitis. When I’m having a flare up, the only sunscreen I can use is Anthelios Ultra-Light Mineral Fluid from La Roche-Posay.
Nurturing Your Skin Back to Health
Managing perioral dermatitis starts with simplifying your skincare routine. The first recommendation you may receive from a doctor is to try “zero treatment”, which is exactly what it sounds like: the complete cessation of all skin care products. You may also receive a prescription for antibiotics.
Post-Perioral Dermatitis Flare Skin Care Recommendations
The market is flooded with products labeled "gentle" or "for sensitive skin," yet many contain ingredients that can irritate vulnerable skin, such as SLS, BHA, or even Vitamin E. The quest for truly gentle skincare requires diligence in ingredient selection, seeking out products that soothe and protect without causing further irritation. Last year I discovered Vetted Dermlabs, and they have completely changed the game for me & my clients with sensitive, compromised skin. If you are not doing zero treatment, their M1 Moisturizer and C Cleanser are great choices, and once your barrier is healed and your PD is cleared up, their Vitamin C serum and Retinol serum are great choices for getting actives back in to your routine .
This is where Vetted DermLabs shines with their commitment to evidence-backed, gentle skincare formulations. Their approach is all about nurturing your skin's health without overwhelming it with harsh ingredients.
Cleanse Gently: Start with Vetted DermLabs C Cleanser. This gentle gel cleanser is designed to cleanse your skin without stripping it of its natural oils, which is crucial for maintaining your skin's delicate balance during recovery from perioral dermatitis.
Moisturize Wisely: Follow up with their M1 Moisturizer. Keeping your skin hydrated is key, but using heavy moisturizers can exacerbate perioral dermatitis. Vetted DermLabs' moisturizer is formulated to provide the right amount of hydration while soothing irritated skin.
Minimize Irritants: Vetted DermLabs products are free from common irritants like fragrances, sulfates, and parabens, making them an ideal choice for anyone managing perioral dermatitis. They focus on what your skin truly needs, steering clear of unnecessary additives. Check out their “No-No List”—everything they don’t use.
Embracing a Holistic Approach
While topical solutions are vital, embracing a holistic approach to your skincare is equally important. Consider factors like diet, stress management, and the use of non-irritating makeup and skincare products. Remember, beauty is not a one-size-fits-all standard but a personal journey where each step towards understanding and caring for our own unique skin and selves is a step towards embracing your individual definition of beauty.
Final Thoughts
Perioral dermatitis can be a challenging condition, but with the right care and products, it's entirely possible to manage and overcome it. Remember, the journey to healthy skin is a marathon, not a sprint. Be patient and kind to yourself as you navigate this path.
FAQ:
Q: Does diet impact Perioral Dermatitis?
A: An integral part of addressing skin conditions like perioral dermatitis involves understanding the gut-skin axis. The gut microbiome plays a vital role in overall health, including skin condition. Imbalances here can lead to skin inflammation and exacerbate conditions like perioral dermatitis. Incorporating a diverse diet that excludes things you may be sensitive or intolerant to, supplements & probiotics when appropriate, ample hydration, and stress management can nourish the gut microbiome, reducing inflammation and promoting skin health from within.
Q: What are the key ingredients to avoid in skincare products if I have perioral dermatitis?
A: Some very common ingredients to avoid if you have perioral dermatitis are listed below. You can also check out the “No-No List” from Vetted, which is a comprehensive list of everything they do not use in their products. It’s the longest I’ve seen from a skin care company.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
Topical Steroids
Heavy Oils and Petroleum-based Ingredients
Fragrances and Perfumes
Alcohols (especially denatured alcohol)
Essential Oils
Chemical Sunscreens (e.g., oxybenzone, avobenzone)
Isopropyl Myristate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Propylene Glycol
Mineral Oil
Silicones (e.g., dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane)
Lanolin
Q: How long does it typically take to see improvement after starting 'zero treatment'?
A: Some experts say that zero treatment requires a full skin cycle in order to be effective. I noticed a significant reduction in my itchiness and redness after a week or two.
Q: Can perioral dermatitis recur after it has been successfully treated, and if so, what preventive measures can be taken to minimize the chances of its return?
A: Yes, perioral dermatitis can come back. Because it is most commonly caused by using topical products that irritate, sensitize, and compromise your skin, I recommend prioritizing the strength and integrity of your skin over all else. Using products formulated specifically for sensitive and compromised skin is crucial. I also recommend talking to your doctor about probiotics, omega-3 and zinc supplements.
Q: What are your thoughts on natural or DIY remedies for perioral dermatitis? Are there any you find effective or recommend avoiding?
A: I do not recommend doing any form of natural or DIY remedies for perioral dermatitis.
Q: How do I incorporate actives like vitamin C and retinol back into my routine once my skin barrier is healed?
A: Go slow, and be gentle. Once your skin is well and truly healed--I’m talking several days of 100% normalcy--I would recommend adding in Vetted DermLab Vitamin C Serum first, and after successfully using that for a minimum of 14 days with no reactions you can incorporate the Vetted DermLab Retinol Serum.